1979 Malibu

[TireSmoker]

Got the power panel mounted. The +12v wires for the injectors and coils are in place. The main power has been run over to the main distribution point on the firewall. I need to run a wire back for the fuel pump, and also for a gas gauge.

Made a ton of progress on the fuel system today, but the cutters I was using for the braided stainless started to fail me. I had the bright idea of using the ones that came with the battery cable crimper. The first couple cuts it went through the lines real well. Then it was missing strands of the braided stainless and just make a mess.

Getting the pump in was no piece of cake either. There is a mounting ring that goes on the inside. It's very difficult to to hold that in place while you get it all lined up. And you gotta be able to retrieve it back out. With my dearest Gwen's help, we fed a couple zip ties from the the bottom, carefully fed them thru the gasket and the fuel pump mount, while I then was able to get some screws in. We could then reach in through the filler hole and carefully remove the zip ties.

I also had to settle for using the 400LPH pump for now because the wires on the Hellcat 525 pump has some sort of Chrysler connecter, and if I cut it off, it wasn't long enough to come out the top. I gotta find some gasoline-safe heat-shrink and I can just splice it. That's a later-on project. If this pump proves inadquate.

However, tragedy did strike the the other night as I somehow managed to 'let the smoke out' of my recently acquired (used) Megasquirt 3X. I plugged it into my stim (tester), and I saw/heard/smelled it immediately. I acquired this MS3X, but when I got it, it had a few more modifications than I wanted to deal with on the mainboard. I had a different mainboard on the shelf already configured to my preference, so I swapped the MS3 & 3X to this other mainboard. This what let the smoke out. There's a guy in PA that does repair, I've already contacted him and will be sending it there to repair whatever is damaged. I *really* hope the MS3 & 3X are ok. The rest of the stuff on the mainboard is all replaceable.

In the engine bay, I'm getting wiring grouped/routed and will start splicing/crimping any day now. I've got everything out and ready to go.

-Dave

[Maverick]

When I did the in-tank pump on the Lincoln, I had a similar issue. Didn't know if the wire insulation was OK submerged in gasohol. I put a fuel-safe rubber hose over the wire. Maybe you could cover the splice, or whole wire, in hose if you're not sure of the shrink wrap.

[TireSmoker]

Thats a good idea Jim, I'll keep that in mind. Using fuel hose like that would be totally fine. Probably only needed on the positive too.

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

Look what arrived today!!! It's big, and heavy. Almost 50lbs.

[MostMint]

Engine - meet Mr. Boost

[TireSmoker]

Updates:

Permanent ground cable from battery to engine block is complete
Heavy cable from Positive firewall stud to starter made-up/installed

75% of EFI wiring complete
Water Pump installed
Alternator brackets installed

Trans temp gauge installed in dash
Lokar dipstick tube installed in trans -- tube needs to be secured

Spent some time trying to duplicate the coil brackets I bought for the Chevelle (no longer available) - but ran into some setbacks trying to hole saw through 1/4" aluminum

Coming this week: fuel system test, first EFI power on to check sensors.

Fingers crossed, might be able to fire it up this week??

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

Important milestone -- fuel system leak test passed! Fuel system is 100% complete, including filter. One final test will be to apply pressure to the regulator to confirm fuel pressure will rise with boost.

Next up, need to make some short lines for the transmission cooler. Existing rubber lines in the car dont quite reach. Once that is done, I can start to think seriously about spinning the motor over.

And more wiring to finish.

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

Lots of progress tonight! I got more of the factory fusebox wired back in and working. I still need to track down what goes hot on start, and what stays hot in start & run.

I removed the coil brackets from the Chevelle and installed them here with a new set of coils from ebay. They're red, so they gotta be better than stock, right?? I still need to make up some plug wires. They are fully wired to the ECU.

Tony came over and we got the shifter linkage hooked up.. sorta. I need a different bracket or something, because I can only get one hole lined up along the transmission pan rail and still have the shifter cable reach any of the holes. For garage purposes, I can move it through the gears.

We also got the starter mounting position sorted and it is mounted in the car. I may need to redo the cable I made from the main power post on the firewall over to the main starter lug. I made this cable up before I knew where anything fit. Its close. And then I need to find the start wire from the key switch.

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

More progress -- I got the key switch sorted out, and with it, sorted out the starter wiring. I kicked the starter once with the key!

I also spent time finishing my relay/fuse panel. End result, with Megasquirt plugged in, I turn the key, and the fuel pump turns on for 2 seconds like it's supposed to! Also, my gauge panel is now powered (with volt readout)

There is starting to be light at the end of the tunnel!

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

So I'm super-close to being able to fire it up, but the driver's side header won't go in from the bottom or the top -- it hits the crossmember in front, the floorboard in the rear, and the engine. Looks like I can get it in from the bottom if I raise the engine up a little off the mount. It would only be partially annoying if I hadn't just loaned out my hoist to Tony. I guess I'll have to go retrieve it. It's at least starting to look like an engine bay though.

Most of the critical wiring is sorted, but there is still a bunch do to:

alternator wiring
radiator fans
wb02 wiring
boost controller
transbrake
line-lock

So I bought this from Amazon, a string of LED lights powered from USB. It puts out a lot of light! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LZK1668?ps ... ct_details I ran it under the dash while I doing some of the wire connections down there and it helped a ton. I think I'm gonna get a couple more for the trunk, engine bay, and maybe even underneath.

-Dave

[TireSmoker]

Chris came over yesterday and after a little investigating, we decided to pull the coils/valve cover on the driver's side, and along with a couple mild persuasion knocks with a rubber mallet, the drivers side header is in place, without having to lift the engine. I'm not sure what it'll take to get them back out, but i'll cross that bridge when i get there.

I got the new throttle cable installed. That actually went pretty quick and easy.

And technically, it has fired up, (!!) but only for a few seconds. That wasn't without issues, either. I had a couple coils mis-wired, but got that sorted. It doesn't have coolant, as I need to find a lower radiator hose. But the other concern is I'm not seeing oil pressure on my new gauge. I'm gonna pull the fitting, test the gauge with the air compressor, and then make sure I don't have a piece of teflon tape blocking the sending unit. It's hard to hear much over the open headers. I literally pulled it from the Chevelle then put it in here. I never pulled the intake or anything.

And when it did fire up, the rear wheels spun (rear axle on jack), so something must be working in the trans

I was going to post a quick startup video, but now the fuel pump isn't turning on.. hmmm. But it did fire

-Dave

this is just for me, so it's written down:
bank 1 coil connector has coils A/G swapped, and F/D swapped, because I flipped the coil sub-harness around. this pic is pre-swap, so A & D are now on the bottom row and G & F are on top row.

bank 2 is standard config.

[TireSmoker]

Oil pressure gauge has been sorted. I also plumbed in the mechanical temp gauge that came with the car. Trans temp gauge remains un-hooked up.

Fuel pump is working again. Not sure what happened there. I didnt touch anything. Although I'm constantly unplugging/replugging the fuses/relays as I test certain stuff out.. I'll pay more attention going forward.

I need to sort out the shifter cable asap. I think I could try moving it under its own power with that working properly. And the cooler lines, although I think I could go up and down the driveway with line looped like it is. Ordered some fittings on amazon, but they're now showing not arriving till july 31.. wth? I'll need to re-source those.

Did a complete cleanup, putting all the tools away, clearing off my workbench and the toolcart.

[TireSmoker]

I found a universal radiator hose at Autozone, Dayco 81261 (1.5-1.75 ID, 19.25" long) I trimmed about an inch off each end and it fits fine. I filled up the cooling system with some water. I have one wire left under the dash for the radiator fans to be fully functional.

I have some big output Powermaster 1-wire that I only used briefly on the Chevelle. 140 amp? I've got it mounted and wired. I started the car and could see 12.8-13.5v on my voltage readout, Woohoo! I *might* have to run the charging wire all the way back to the shutoff switch in the trunk, so that it can't run on alternator power with the switch off. I'll have to check the rules.

The shifter cable seems to work as-is, so I'm able to put it in all the gears. But I can't leave it like this, only 1 bolt holding it. But that means it has moved under its own power!! Inches, but it moved.

Still need to get the trans cooler plumbed and fully resolve the linkage issue. And wire in the transbrake.

Other electrical:
Brake lights -- all the wiring looks intact on the brake pedal and switch, but I'm not seeing any brake lights. Tail lights work. I do think I have some bulbs out that I need to check first. Maybe I'll get lucky.. haha..

But I think we are ready for a driveway test soon!

Really need to find 2 Ford wheels. 15x7-ish, 5 x 4.5.

-Dave

[MostMint]

I’m guessing he didn’t want to show he was on the brakes

[TireSmoker]

Progress has slowed way down, but it can now completely move around under its own power. It starts reliably. The new transcooler is installed and fully plumbed, but I still need to wire the fan. Did it this way so that it wouldnt interfere with the intercooler.

In moving it out the garage, the power part of the brakes work very well. Also didn't hear anything rub or scrape. The manual steering.. it's a lotta lock-to-lock. Within 30 minutes of moving it outside, it started raining and had to put it back in.

I measured the current rear wheels, 15x7, 4.5" back space.

One issue was revealed, once running, the main switch in the back won't kill the car. I think I need to run the alternator's charge wire all the way back to the battery side of the main cutoff switch.